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2012-03-29

Gluing the bridge

Actually I glued on the bridge and strung it up the same day I glued on the fingerboard.
But after stringing up, the bridge flew up... Luckily no damage to the bridge and top.
Another good reason to use hide glue.
I wanted to redo the gluing since I noticed a gap behind the bridge, the bridge flew up on me just at the right time.
It's not fault of the hide glue, it's just that I waited only 1/2 hour before stringing up before the glue had dried.
I am sure if I leave it to dry it would have held up just fine, but I rather not see the gap there since bridge is part of the very important part of sound production.
Anyway here is what I did.

I marked the position of the bridge at 652mm; 2mm for compensation.
The reference mark should at 325 mm at the 12th fret; not 0 mm at the nut.
This is because some maker do a nut compensation.
Also I use a square to ensure the saddle is perpendicular to the center line.
Another way to check is to ensure both treble and bass side are of the same length.
Next I tape the bridge down and drill 2 holes (1mm) for guide.

After all set, it's time to apply the glue.
I prepared the clamps in position at the sound hole.
The caul didn't work too well so I tape some cork to the clamp instead and use it without the caul.
Using similar procedures as before, I heat up the surface and apply the glue.
Align the holes and press it down a bit.
Then I apply the clamps.
After that I did notice a gap behind the tie block area.

After 1/2 hour or so I remove the clamp thinking if I want to redo gluing.
But I just record the tap tone and strung it up.
It sounded pretty loud with the open strings.
When I was about to test with a high note the bridge pop out.
Luckily there is no damage to the sound board and bridge.

Marking the bridge at 652 mm

Making sure bridge is perpendicular to the center line.

Drill the guide hole

All set for gluing

Apply the hide glue

Apply the clamps

Another way after I noticed the gap...

Strung it up

The bridge flew off..
No damage to the top.

After that I clean up the glue remnants on the top.
Though for hide glue is not really necessary as the old glue will fused with the new one.
But I need a clean surface for sanding the 2 surface to fit.
So I proceed to sand the bridge after I got both surfaced cleaned up.
Then again I did the gluing again.
This time round I didn't apply the clamp, just use my hand pressure for 15 minutes or so until it grabs and then I apply just one clamp to hold it down.
The fit was good no gaps front or back.

Sand to fit

Apply hide glue again

The clamping is just a flexible stick clamp on 2 sides.
No support underneath not really necessary actually.
The top can support itself.

Done.

Next will be to string it up.
But this time round I'll wait for 24 hours to let it dry.
After 2 hours, I removed the clamp and did some pre-setup that's another post...

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