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Making the Rosette (Again)

In the last rosette attempt, the router drifted and parts of the rosette was over-cut.
I reasoned that mistake was due to the several factors:

1) The double sided tape didn't manage to hold the rosette
2) Not enough power on the Dremel (B&D RTX) rotary tool

So to deal with this issues what I can think of is
For problem 1)
- I'll glue them to a thin board or paper cardboard and route together with it.
- I'll use a 2 circular clamping caul:
I first route the inner rim. I can use the outer caul, which will have a hole cut in the middle
and will clamp up to 1/2 of the rosette width.
Similarly, when I route the outer rim, I will use the inner caul which will also clamp up to 1/2 the rosette width.
But the only problem is the I need to extend the circular jig such that the router bit can protrude beneath longer.
So either I use the laminate trimmer or make another instead of using the StewMac precision router base.

For problem 2)
I can definitely use the laminate trimmer for more power.
But more power also means more potential for disaster...

Looks like I need to do some testing out before I route the actual rosette.

I prepared the files once again and this time round I correct the angle for each tile, making sure they all converge to the center point.
Using the #4 plane and cut the tile by moving the tile instead of the plane, I can control how to remove and where.
To make the angle more acute, I swipe the front portion first and move the starting point back and eventually take a full pass.
Also I make sure that the tile sides is still perpendicular to the face.

Finally I laid them out on the cardboard.
All set to glue and route.

Checking the alignment the taper of the tiles.

Adjusting the taper of the tile on the plane

The rosette tile ready to be glue and routed.

I glued them together using hide glue this time round.
Well I haven't decided if I wanted to glue them or double taped them to a backing while routing.
So meanwhile I just glued the tiles together on a wax paper and then hold them together using fingers while the HHG gels.

Finally I glued them into a arc; ready for the next step
1) Should I glue them onto a thin plywood backing?
But how do I remove the backing after I routed the rosette?
Sand them till nothing?

2) Or should I just double taped them?
Will it run again while I route them? (But I will be using the trimmer this time round instead of the RTX (Dremel)
Should I build a heavier circular clamp (inner and outer)?

3) Or a hybrid? Just a drop of HHG on some of the tiles while I route and double tape the rest.
That will leave me pondering for the next few days.

Applying the HHG to the side of the tiles

Gluing them on the wax paper and holding them by finger while the HHG gels

Gluing the tiles in groups of 3s. Make sure the tiles are still within the arc

All tiles glued

Ready for routing

Well finally I thought of something I'll adopt the 2 double tape them but with an extra reinforcement.
A thin ring which I cut from a plywood that is screw down onto the board and thus clamping the rosette tiles.
When I route the inner arc, the outer part of the rosette will be clamped down.
Conversely when I route the outer arc, the inner part will be clamped down.
Together with the double tape I think it will hold just fine.
I tried to move the rosette without even being double tape, the clamp is sure tight.

I routed the inner and outer ring for the rosette as reference on the board.

The outer and inner clamp which I made from plywood.
I just routed somewhere in the middle and I get 2 clamps

The inner clamp

Drill the screw holes and counter sink them.

The clamp in action.

Elevate the base as the screw protrudes below.
I lazy to cut to length the screws; anyway the nuts will protrude also.

Now to make the outer clamp
Similarly I just drill and countersunk the holes.
And I tried to clamp the rosette blank: holds very tight.
Now I am all set to start routing the rosette.

I will first route the outer ring and use the inner circle clamp.
After aligning the rosette in the 2 ring marking I routed onto the board,
I started to screw tight the middle clamp.
Then I just started to route a shallow pass and check the effect.
Looks good and I tried a 2 more pass to finally clear the outer circle.

Before I loosen the central clamp I started to clamp the outer clamp.
This way I wont loose the position of the rosette, and the 2 arcs will be concentric.
After clamping, I started to route the inner circle.
The effect wasn't too good and I adjust the length inwards into the rosette and cut until I get a clean arc.
The final effect was very good.
I am pleased with myself the clamp works perfectly.

Outer clamp

Ready to route

Another view

Route the outer arc 1st pass

Close up looks good.

Outer arc done

Close up looks clean

Clamping the outer clamp w/o releasing the inner - to ensure the alignment is correct

Inner clamp removed

Ready to route inner arc

1st pass. Clamping looks sturdy.

Final pass done

Not even edges. Need to adjust further in and route again

Close up

Re-routed. Finally done.

Debris cleared.

Measure against the cardboard reference

Against wood background looks good.

On the top

Next to come inlay it.

I am deciding what border to use for the rosette:
1) Red white black (thick) purfling or
2) Red white herringbone(thick) style
Main consideration is that I want to make the edge purfling style same as the rosette.
I only have 2 pieces of herring bone left and 2 cutoff left behind from my 1st build.
This might not be enough.

Trying out the purlfing scheme for the rosette

On a white background.

The other purfling scheme which I thought is simpler.
The herringbone doesn't really fit.

Then I proceed to cut some purfling from my fibre veneer sheet.
I use a penknife and clamp a 1metre steel rule on the veneer sheet.
The thin veneer sheet is easy to cut but for the black thick fibre sheet, it was too thick.
I tried using the B&D RTX with a diamond cutter disk but the RTX grew too hot.
In the end, I just use a fret saw and saw it successfully.
Sometimes simple tools work best.

Cutting the purfling.


Sawing the Top outline

Well my workbench table isn't exactly cleared of the things,
but I just couldn't resist it so I took out the top and saw the outline.
I leave about 5mm of border from the plantilla line.

Cutting the top was much easier as the top was softer than the back.
I had a better fret saw and that certainly does make a difference.
The fret saw grip the blade more tightly and I didn't manage to break any blade this time round.

Here are the pictures.
The tops nearly all saw.

The top

Top and back

I also measure the thickness using my caliper and it was about 2.8 mm throughout.
That was close to the final thickness.
I had better start to inlay the rosette and carry on my work.
Hopefully by the end of the year I should be done.