Gluing the binding
Finally I managed to bind the back of the guitar.
The front's rebate I haven't cut yet, still stuck on making the jig for the trimmer.
For the binding I use tape to tape it down.
I admire those skill people to be able to work so fast with the glue drying so fast.
I use normal PVA white glue for the job.
It took me quite abit of time to get used to working fast.
Anyway what I should have done is to dry fit cut to length without the glue before attempting to cut and glue at the same time.
The rebate wasn't cut too good, so it was difficult to make the binding and BW purfling sit properly in the rebate, especially at the joints area, the butt-joint cutting was badly done.
To secure it in place I use normal tape and some rope.
However at places, the tape came lose and gaps were formed in the binding...
To make thins worse, the rope wasn't long enough to cover all the areas.
So some of the areas weren't tied by the rope and its those areas that have gaps.
However, I've search the OLF for some answers how to fill those gaps.
Basically just put some white PVA glue and sand the surround wood to fill the gaps.
If I use Cyano-acrylate (CA or super) glue I must remember to seal the purfing with shellac as it will stain it.
Since I am using white PVA I will continue to use that for the gap filling.
The way to secure the binding: tape + rope.
Rope abit too short though.
As you can see the tape detaching at certain places.
You can see some gaps in the binding.
The but joint at the heel area badly done...
The butt area also not well done...
The butt view of the binding.
Filling the gaps
I read some post on the OLF for some ideas on filling the gap.
It is actually quite simple: apply some glue (PVA) and sand the surrounding area.
I tried it it really works.
The only thing is that the maple bind will be stained by the brown rosewood.
But after some scraping work, the maple is as good as new and the gaps filled.
Another one :)
Another 2 more :)
I also work on the end insert.
By right, the better way, is to do the end insert before gluing the binding.
However, since I have already done one side of the binding, it still not too late to do the end insert.
The other side of the insert will be routed by away.
If you are doing miters, then it's a different story...
As I have no side purfling, there is no need for me to do miters, so I can safely route away the end insert for the top bind routing.
I also redo the butt joint part for the bindings.
I chiselled away the binding for the width of the insert and use a binding leftover for the gap.
This time round I try to get as close fit as possible.
I had to paste the black purfling strip also, as it was chiseling away.
Now it looks abit thicker than the surrounding purfling.
Well not too well done but at least the gap isnt that obvious now.
Cleaning the insert area's side
Cleaning the channel using the 2 cherries curved paring chisel.
Dry fitting of the end insert. Looks good.
Some scraping to fill the gaps. Forgot to take a picture that is applying the white glue 1st before scraping / sanding.
End part after the patch. The purfling strip looks a bit thicker than surrounding one...
Now 2 problems solved, left with the heel aread.
The gaps are pretty bad due to lousy chiselling of the channel.
I should have gotten the 1 mm chisel to clear the binding channel...
Well the binding does sits properly in the channel causing the wide gap.
Now trying to think of a way to solve it.. stay tuned for the updates..
Binding doesnt sits well in the lousy chiselled channel.
Remedy will be ???