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Prepare for Assembly

I began to prepare for the assembly process.
First I cut the top rebate in the neck / heel portion.
I measure the depth and remove the material in the heel using the router plane.
I glue a cross-section patch to the top to reinforce the area.
This area of the top is very prone to splitting due to the instability of the fingerboard.

After that I align the top to the heel, and drill 4 pilot holes for alignment.
The holes are filled with small 2.5mm wooden dowel.
Then I cut the top to size at the top end where it meets the heel.
Once the alignment is OK the gluing was done.

Planing a rebate in the heel

Saw away a section of the top. This part will be glued into the heel.

A cross patch for reinforcing the top at the portion below the fingerboard.

Gluing the top to the heel using 4 alignment dowels

The top and neck are clamped.

While waiting for the glue to dry, I bent the back lining.
It consist of 3 pieces of 2mm thick Japanese Paulownia wood.
Once bent they are clamped to the sides to take the shape of the sides.
The lining will be shaped to look better before the actual gluing.

Bend the lining strips.

Clamp the lining strips to the sides.
However, it's not glue the sides yet, the strips are only glued to one another.

Linings prepared

After that I shaped the side wedges for a close fit.
Finally I began to set up for assembly.
However I wasn't able to get a good alignment and luckily I double check.
The last time I use individual side support for this solera (V3). This time I adapted V2's side mould for this solera.
So some time is needed to adjust the alignment.
I also saw the sides to fit the neck slot.
Finally after some fiddling it seems ready to be assemblied, but I was too tired then so it will be done in the next session.

Prepared the side wedges.

Fiddling for the alignment in the assembly.

Another view (with end block)

Wedged fitted.

Table cleared, all set for assembly.


Shaping the heel

Before I assemble the gutiar I have to shape the heel properly.
I cut the side curve using my saw and chisel away the rest.
Then I began to shape the secondary bevels
After gluing the heel to the neck, I began to shape the heel more.
It would be harder to shape it after the guitar is assembled.

Saw away the sides of the heel from the front.
I use a sliding bevel to make sure the 2 angles are the same.

Chisel the waste away

Glue the heel to neck.

Clamp the heel to the neck

Shaping the heel.

The heel now is a sharp heel.
I probably round it off to become a bullet shape.
Just wanted to try this shape for now.

Final heel shaped and sanded nicely.


Bracing the top

I began to brace the top for #8.
The process is similar to the other guitars.
First I shaped the donut.
Then I set began to glue in the braces one by one.
This guitar is using Simplicio 8 fan brace so I have to make some extra go-bars on the fly.

Once the fan braces are in they look quite impressive.

Preparing the donut ring.

Now ready to glue

Gluing the donut. The centre part I use the screw clamp to save some go-bar but in the end still not enough go-bars to go around for the other side of the fan brace that I have to make some more.

All braces glued

The braces of the top are shape accordingly much like #9.
The X-section profile is triangular shape and longitudinal profile is a bit like stream beam with straight / parabolic tapering near the ends.
The end next end block tapers earlier while the other end doesn't start tapering as early.
The tools I used include:
- Rebate plane
- Small straight base plane
- Small curved base plane
- Japanese chisel

After that I shaped the donut too.
The outer parts are remove more while the sound hole part remains taller.

Removing bulk of the braces with this rebate plane.

Triangular x-section profile

Longitudinal profile

Fan braces carved. This is how the entire bracing should look like.

I glue in the closing brace and the 2 side brace.
The 2 traverse brace will come later.

Glued the side and closing brace.

Glued the side and closing brace

The side and closing braces are carved and the traverse braces are glued.

Carved the side and closing brace.

Cutting the aperture in the traverse braces

Gluing the LTB

Glued both traverse braces

Another view

I shape up the UTB and LTB and weigh the top.
Its about 190.7 quite close to #9 top.
The resonance points are quite near to #5 points too.
Note that it's heavier compare to #5 due to the heavier density of the top.

Weight of top 190.7