As a side project, I replace the broken top of my chair.
It's nothing difficult just cut 2 circle with my jigsaw and glue them together.
After the glued dried, I plane the edges to fit and smoothen the sides.
Finally I applied a PU varnish on the top.
Look pretty good.
I will probably sand the metal legs and repaint it too.
After 1 year, I finally decided to give the metal leg frame a coat of paint.
Before that I had to sand away the layer of rust building up.
The paint I used is a water based enamel paint so it'll dry faster.
Although I suspect the oil based will be better for metal.
But it doesnt smell at all and that's the main reason for using this.
Meanwhile I took the chance to paint the room door too after 20 years of use.
During the yearly spring cleaning, I re-organised my woods on the rack.
Well one thing is I have been showing the woods to a number of visitors to my workshop, it's kind of difficult to always climb up ad down if I put my woods all on the top rack.
So I decided to shift the woods down by one.
The side woods are still on the top rack though and I took the chance to match the sides to the back.
In case I forgotten which side matches which back
Anyway here's the result :)
In a parallel build with #8, I will be starting on #7.
The specifications are as follows:
|Back / Sides:||Madagascar Rosewood|
|Headplate:||Madagascar Rosewood (from back)|
|Bridge:||Madagascar Rosewood (18 Hole design) with MOP tie-block plate|
|Nut / Saddle:||Bone|
|Scale Length / Nut Width:||650mm / 54mm (string spacing 41)|
|Finish:||Shellac FP top / Lacquer B&S|
|Bracing:||Modified Bouchet bracing (same as my #3)|
- Active back
- Sound port
- Half elevated fingberboard design
- 22th fret
- Marker on 7th fret
The unique feature I wanted to try out in this build is the half elevated fingerboard design.
I.e. the treble side of the fingerboard will be dropped down to present the elevated part of the neck while the bass side will remain as per normal.
The good thing about this design is that the elevated fingerboard will not be as confusing as the full elevated fingerboard design, while maintaining the ease of reach of the upper frets.
However it will present more problem:
- The top will be split in order to allow such a design.
- The binding channel near the treble side heel area will be as difficult to do like my #2
- The neck/heel will be super complicated as one side is normal one side is elevated.
I glued up the back. Next will be the top
The top was also jointed.
The jointed back was give a scrape to see how the good the joint is.
Also the excess glue was scraped away.