I had one neck (Sapele) with the scarf joint already glued for #3.
I am going to do another (Cedro) for the #4.
So with my 15 degree jig I saw the scarf joint and clean it up with plane.
This has more or less become 2nd nature which is quite easy.
Next I will be making the head plate for the #3.
I joint 2 cut-off from back of #3 and it's ready for gluing onto the head.
I glued the scarf joint for the #4 guitar.
Not perfect as I need to take it apart reheat the HHG and glue it back.
I think my HHG has gotten too thick I need to thin it down a little.
The neck gluing didn't turn out to be perfect, so I tore it down and redo the gluing.
That's the good thing about using hide glue.
Still it's very hard to make it come apart; I need lots of heating and inserting the spatula inside the small gap.
Some 1/2 hour or so the 2 pieces came apart without much damage.
I scrape the hide glue remnants on surface and re-plane the scarf.
This time round I check for perfect fitting include the reference edge.
Once I am satisfied the 2 parts are ready for gluing again.
Now is the gluing time.
I prepared the HHG and then heat up the surface and started gluing.
One thing I noticed is that my HHG is slightly too thick so I added some water before I glue.
The texture is just nice.
I heat up using my hairdryer and apply hide glue to the surface.
The neck body is clamped down 1st.
After that I glued the head and clamped in 2 blocks to apply constant pressure.
Similarly I repeat for the other neck.
Now this other neck is for another project; I shall elaborate more of that later as now I have 3 guitar projects on-going at the same time.
After that I work on the headplate for my #3 neck.
I plane 1st and then scrape smooth.
The ink lines for IRW are pretty nice; just nice for the center seam.
So I don't really need any decoration for this guitar which is the main theme of the ornament for this guitar #3: natural
Next I began to glue the veneer.
As for the head plate I wanted to wait till the veneer is trimmed so that I can drill some guide holes.
I use 2 layers of maple followed by 2 layers of walnut and finally 2 layers of maple again.
The neck wood is dark so I have dark(neck), light(maple), dark(walnut), light(maple) and dark (head plate)
Total thickness of the veneer is 1.42 mm and head plate is about 3mm.
I will trim the reverse side of the head once the tuner holes are drilled.
As for the other 2 necks they are glued pretty nice!
Now the #3 neck is ready for gluing on the head plate.
I didn't glue it together with the veneer is because I need to align it centrally.
With all the protruding veneers it's pretty hard to align it.
After I trimmed the veneers, I drill 2 guide holes on the headplate on those area which will be sawn away later.
After that I prepare the HHG; and then I apply the glue; and finally clamped it.
To cater for the slight movement during clamping, I didn't clamp too hard down at first.
After tapping here and there to adjust the alignment, I apply more force on the clamp to stablise it.
The head plate gluing looks good.
Center almost perfectly to the eye on the center seam.
After that I saw the headplate at the nut end so that the headplate ends in perpendicular to the fingerboard.
But I can't find my old block, which was also 15 degrees head, and so I make another one by shooting a block of wood on the plane.
After sawing the excess, I clean up with chisel.
Then I started to taper the sides with plane.
This Sapele is much harder to work with compare to Spanish Cedar.
I began to work on the head stock shape.
Well I could have use a base shape and router with a trimming bit to follow the shape attach to the underside but I chose to do it the traditional way using chisel and rebate plane.
I draw the marking on the head and started sawing away those waste parts.
Those intricate one I use chisel to chisel away.
Finally I clean up using the rebate plane in various orientation to clean up the surface.
Next I drilled the tuner holes.
With the LMI tuner jig it was quite simple.
Unfortunately I am using the 10.31 or 13/32 drill bit, and the tuner jig is meant for 10 mm.
Out of the 3 holes only 2 is large enough to drill thru'.
So I drill 2 and then turn the jig over to drill the 3rd one, making sure the center hole is correct (by inserting another drill bit within.
One fine day I should just try 10 mm instead.
Next is to drill the slot hole and cut.
I marked out the slot hole and drill them.
Next I use the coping saw and saw out the waste material in the slot, followed by chiseling the edges to the line.
I plane headstock thickness (at the back) abit to make it less bulky.
Next I saw the front slot and chisel a slope for string clearance when tying to the 1st string and 6th string tuner barrel.
The mini douzuki saw I bought recently was very useful; more handy than my usual big ryouba.