#7 top was thicknessed the same way as the other 2.
The final weight came to be about 133.3g which is similar to #9
This is not surprising as I think they are from the same or similar trees
After the top was thicknessed I remove the sound hole and measure the density of the wood.
Actually this is not really a very accurate way of measuring the density.
It would be more accurate to measure when it was still square as the margin for error is larger.
With such a small sample, any variance will cause a larger error.
Normally this section will come under bracing
Since I am doing 3 guitars at one go I thought I just lump them all under this post.
I joint up the donut sound hole reinforcement using the spruce cut-off from the top.
I have enougth to make 4 actually.
I find the cam-clamp very useful in doing this type of ad-hoc non-critical joints
After this I would need to split some braces.
After all the blanks are jointed, I began to cut out the disc.
But before that I had to drill the center hole.
I am using my favourite self-made scribe.
I split somemore brace and plane them down to shape.
I had to go to the staircase to split and eventually ground floor as it's night time and the hammering noise will be a disturbance to the lower floors...
I split 2 spruce one is Lutz and one is Englemann; the Lutz spruce definitely feels stiffer than the Englemann.
So I will be using the Lutz for the fan bracing and Englemann for the UTB and LTB.
After cutting out the brace blank, I lay them out on a board.
It was raining these few days so I delayed the bracing gluing due to the rise in RH.
I began to inlay the rosette for the #8.
Actually the steps is similar to #9
I scribed the ring and carved out the channel using the router plane.
Fill the channel with white glue and then glue and clamped it.
At this stage the fit isn't quite as important.
The borders will be covered by purfling.
I trim down the rosette.
I also began to inlay the purfling for this guitar #8.
The steps is similar to the #9 which I did earlier.
I inlay the outer purflin.
Before inlaying I would do a dry run to ensure the fit is good.
For such precise stuff it's better to take it slow and do as much dry fitting as required.
No use to rush for it.
The rosette is done.
The inlay work looks quite ok.
Now have to sand and clean up the top
Now the 2nd part of the story is #7 inlay of the rosette.
The steps are similar to previous.
But this time I cheated a little and use the dremel to route the outer arch.
But I notice the cut using the manual cutter is more accurate and precise.
I uncoverd the clamp and check the rosette looks pretty ok.
After that I shaved down the thick rosette and try to see which purfling fits better.
I patched the uncovered segment for the #8 with the spare spruce cut off.
As I do not have a piece big enough to cover the entire section I use 2 piece instead.
One bigger piece which will cover the centre seam and one smaller piece to fill up the rest of the channel.
The piece was first sawn and then chisel to fit the channel.
After that I work on the inner purfling for the #7.
It's pretty straight forward.
The last bit of the purfling is inlayed.
I patch up the rosette channel and plane them down.