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Close the box!

Finally the day of the box being closed.
First before starting I will do a dry run of the process.
This helps to familiarise with teh actual process as well as keeps all the need tools and materials within the reach.
This is especially so if you are working with hide glue.
Clamps, wood blocks, hair dryer, hide glue, etc..
Just closing the box, I did a last check on the fit and plane fresh surface on the lining.
Then I began the process.

First I heat the rims with the hair dryer.
Then I proceed with applying the hide glue.
As the hide is already heated I can carry the bottle and apply it rim the rim in quick fashion.
Before gluing the back, I heated once again with hair dryer
Then I proceed with gluing in the back.
The clamp and blocks were applyed in place.
First the heel and end block.
Followed by blocks at the upper and lower bout.
Then the waist.
For the waist part, I apply an addition flexible wood strip to spread the force over the entire brace.
This is because the brace is glued to the rim not the back.
Similar for upperbout brace, I use blocks to spread the force across the brace area too.
Finally all blocks done.
Also for aligning the back, I use pins in the heel to ensure the alignment is centred.

Dry run

Glue the label

One final look before closing the box

Heating up the rim.

Box is closed

Another view

Another view

Next day I release all the cramps and started to trim the overhang...
Damn I slipped and cut my middle finger on the wood...
Anyway I use planes and chisel to trim the wood is sure hard to plane.

Clamp released

Closed box

Trimming the back overhang


Making the back

I started to thickness the back while waiting gluing other parts.
The back is a damn dense wood which is very hard to plane.
I think this process will take some time.

Closer view of the dense wood

Full view of the back

Thicknessing starts

Now more planing and scraping time.
Thicknessing this wood is a pain in the ass.
It is very taxing on the tools too.

Planing the back, you see my dog hole clamp in action here

Back is 465g now

More planing and scraping in progress


Planing with scrub plane

Scraping in action

Finally all thicknessing is done.
The weight is reduced to 353g

All tear out removed


Next I close up the box with clamps to mark the position of the back braces.
I insert my arm into the box with a pencil to mark the position of the back braces.

Mark position of back braces.

Next the 3rd back brace is glued onto the back.

Heat up the back surface

Heat up the glue

Glue and clamped

The brace is shaped accordingly

Almost ready to close the box

Shaping the back brace

Glue the back seam reinforcement made from spruce off cut.
The pieces are glued using the radius jig to give it a pre-curved shape
The other 2 back brace are also glued to the body rim.

Back seam reinforcement glued from spruce off cuts

Back braces glue to rim.

Next I shaped the back seam reinforcement to a nice curve profile.
Also I check that the reinforcement is at the right place not interfering with the back brace and end block when the box is closed.

Shaping the back seam reinforcement

After using chisel and plane I also sand the back seam reinforcement

All done.

Checking the fit with the back braces and end block.

Glued the back radial braces

Carving the back radial braces

Back all done.


Prepare for Close Box

The side braces are ready to be glued.
In the preparation of the side braes, my saw teeth was destroyed.
To glue the side braces, they need to be inlet into the lining or peones itself.
This is to prevent the side braces from exerting weakness on the sides as it is basically a cross brace on the sides.
Luckily this is ABW which is a very stable wood.

Saw teeth destroyed by the preparation of the side braces

Side braces prepared

Inletting the side braces

Inletting the side braces

Inletting the side braces

All side braces prepared and inletted

Ready for gluing

Gluing starts

Side braces all glued

Side braces all glued

Next is to prepare the backing for the sound port.
One thing have to be sure is not to mess up the position of the sound port.
It should be done at the side facing the player i.e. bass side.
Although one can argue to open 2 holes, but more sound port will cause degration to the low response of the sound.
So need to limit how many and size of sound port open.

The veneers were glued to the back of the position of the sides where the port will be opened.
A curved caul was made to ensure the veneers are clamp properly.

Gluing the backing for the sound port

Gluing the backing for the sound port

Next will be the cutting of the sound port itself.
The commissioner of the guitar prefers to have a star shape sound port
So but the problem of having a star shape is that it's not symmetrical.
So there need to be some form of orientation.
So I was deliberating the orientation of facing the player or straight with respect to the guitar.
Finally decision was to take reference to the guitar.

The hole was cut and file to shape nicely.

Facing the guitar.

Facing the guitar in player's viewpoint

Facing the player (at player's viewpoint)

Facing the player when straight

Sound port cut. A sneek preview of the elevated fingerboard geometry

Close up of the sound port

Closer view

I glued the tornavoz to the top also.

Glue the tornavoz to the top and support with peones

Tornavoz sanded

Added one more side brace at the end block to increase the total side brace weight to be about 400g