So I was waiting for the rain to stop before I start the assembly process.
Although I had a dehumidifier, I didn't want it to overwork.
The RH went all the way into the 80s during the rainy season
So I began to assemble when it didn't rain too much today.
I drive the RH down to 60s 50s before I started gluing.
Before I glue the sides to the end block, I scrape the sides.
Though it's not perfect, but the surface was much better than before.
Then I heat up the hide glue began to glue the side to the end block.
I forgot the HHG will squeeze out of the gap so I last minute inserted a wax paper in between.
Then before I work on the top to the neck, I carve the heel almost to finish.
I thought it would be hard to do the carving when it's all assembled.
The carving was quite done quickly and it feel just right in my LH.
I didn't smooth out alot just some rough smoothen by the rasp and file.
The touch up will be done once the top is assembled.
Then I inserted the wedge noted mentally how to glue up the top to the neck.
The wedge will be used to clamp the top to the neck but the wedge will not be glued as yet.
As a result I had to insert a wax paper to prevent the wedge from being glued.
Well after some thoughts about it I started the actual assembly.
1st I glued the wedge in between the heel block and the top.
I thought this will make the whole thing more stable so gluing in is a better option.
Next I level the end block to make sure the surface is flat.
And apply glue to the end block and glue to the top.
But problem is I don't really have a good clamping option.
I held it down by hand 1st waiting for the glue to set.
Then I clamp a wooden block to the end block and clamp the wooden block to the side mould ends.
But since the pressure is applied only at 1 side, this might distort the start.
In the end I clamp 2 blocks to the end block and use my #4 Stanley as a weight to hold it in place.
This works much better.
Next I glue in the side wedges.
Now for this I just apply glue to the rear side of the wedge
The front wedge I didn't apply any glue.
This is to allow the side to expand contract
Romanillos did it this way too.
Following that, I did up 2 sticks to held down the sides before I glue in the linings.
The sticks have 2 slots to hold the sides to a the correct width.
This are held by 4 clamps.
Lastly I start gluing the lining.
I held by hand 1st then clamp some wooden block to the sides (not side mould).
Clamps to the side mould will distort the shape.
For the lower bout since the sides is perpendicular to the top there is no issue.
For the upper bout, it is tapered, so the lining bottom at the front edge will need to be taper as well.
I use the upper block cutoff of the solera to shoot plane the correct angle to the lining bottom.
Now my favourite plane is the shoulder rebate plane.
It's light and cuts very well.
For the oblique part I just change the angle abit.
I did the lining in sections of 3 blocks to facilitate this.
Finally after some work it was done :)
This is to ensure if the traverse brace expands it will not push against the sides.
Once in the slot it will be very hard to trim down.
Ensure the front wedge doesn't extend to block the side wedge.
(The side mould is lifted from the solera, there is a gap of about 1.5 cm same height as the elevated neck part)
So I end up just held down by weights.
I clamp 2 wooden block for more surface area.
This is to allow the sides to move if it expands.
(But it's actually clamp very tight by the wedges I wonder if it can move or not)
Anyway Romanillos did it this way too.
Make sure only clamp to the sides not the side mould so that it won't distort the side shape.
The lining is tapered so by clamping down this face, both vertical and horizontal force will be applied clamping to the top and sides simultaneously
The angle block is the removable section of the upper bout elevated part of the solera,
so it have the correct angle.
The lining fits nicely.
The curvature part after that I just use some scraper to change the angle gradually.
The perpendicular sides after that is ok as it will be square to the side too.
Clean up is always a problem for me... HHG is so sticky... but that's the good thing about HHG isn't it?
After all the glue dried, I took it out and trim the edges.
As I didn't force the sides to conform to the mould exactly, there are some edges.
I easily parred it down with my favourite rebate plane and chisel.
Here are some pics
Looks like the side is made just for this design.
I saw away the protruding part of the end block and side wedges.
After that I use my rebate plane to shape the profile of the back.
Although I drew the 15' radius of my Gutmeier (which was probably shaped using a radius dish),
I did not really follow that profile.
I choose a high lower bout end and taper toward the upper bout just like my 1st build.
The end is a bit higher than the mark shape.
The Spanish foot was also shaped according to the radius stick which I have made previously.
I noticed there is a seam at the front side at the heel region ... I wonder how to solve it.
Also I prepared the side struts to reinforce the sides.
This is a very common method in woodworking to see if a twist has occurred
The curve of the back brace should match the foot exactly.
The hard part is the wedge is end grain (different grain orientation with the foot).
When planing it I use chisel 1st followed by plane
I sand the sides to make sure they fit.
I use the same method as I did for #1
A sanding board with sand paper attached.
The upper bout and lower bout will form 2 angles.
No comments:
Post a Comment