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2012-01-05

Closing the box

Well before I can close the box, I need to figure out how...
My solera doesn't have slots so I can't insert my F-clamp to clamp the back like what I did for the last round.
Only my big F-clamp (which I only have 4 of them) can reach in just far enough to clamp.
I will use those for the tail block and heel.
For the rest, I still are unable to figure out how to clamp.

One of the way is to use strings.
So I tried a dry run to see how long I need.
I clamp the solera to the bench top.
Note that the solera is very heavy so I clamp onto it length wise the weight of the bench top won't topple in this way.
After that I proceed to use the string to clamp.
It took about 15 mins and that's way too long.
So I think I won't be using strings...
Any good way?

I did note that once the 2 big clamps are applied to the heel and end block area, the rest of them doesn't really need much clamping down.
So the go-bars might just do the trick.
I'll try that next...

Strings to clamp the back. The wedge is to increase the string tension

Solera clamped to the bench top.

Before I close the box I tap the back and compare to the sound clips which I have tapped and recorded before I added those radial braces.
As expected the pitch is much higher than the previous tap tone where there is only the traverse brace.
So I decided to lower a bit more.
What I am looking for is a deep bass growl.
The previous tap just sound a bit too high in pitch.

Radial brace profile.
Lower towards the external edges

Overall profile

After trying various ways... the easiest is to use go-bars :)
Initially I thought go-bars doesn't have the strength to clamp down properly.
But I was wrong.
If one bar is not enough then simply add another.
The seam between the back and the rims are tight.
Think I can start closing the back all preparation are set.
Stay tune. (I took a pic but it was blurred so no pics to show the dry run process)

Well now is the real thing.
As I need to work fast I get everything prepared.
All the go-bar by the side within reach; the back marked to help with the alignment; the wooden block within reach; HHG all heat up ready to glue.
Before gluing I heat up the gluing area.
Then with quick hand I apply the HHG, and it started to gel already by the time I finished applying thru' out the rim.
I use the hairdryer to heat up further before gluing the back.
After a quick alignment, I began to put in the go-bars.
Luckily with the dry run, I realised I had to start from the inner side (though it's common sense, it's easily forgotten w/o dry run practice) to facilitate fast application of the go-bar.
After some adjustment I am all set all within 2 or 3 minutes or so.
Much faster than using strings.

Ready for closing the box.

Heat up the gluing surface

After applying the glue, heat up the HHG before closing the box.

Applying the go-bar to clamp down the back.

Can see the upper deck of the go-bar deck.
It was adjusted up to cater for the taller back.

Closeup view

Well after 1 day's of gluing, I excited removed the go-bars and examine the result.
So far ok though it's not really perfect.
There are some gaps in the closing but none too big.
I trim off the excess edges using my favourite rebate plane and chisel at the waist.
Next to come is binding and purfling but that's another big headache.

Removing the go-bar

Close up view

At the waist

Lower bout

Trim off the excess edges

Can see the doming of the back

The back

Side profile

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