The top resonance is a high B3 253Hz and body resonance B2 123Hz
It's higher than I had hope for, Now I might just shoot for a heavier bridge to bring down the resonance or thin the perimeter to bring down the resonance.
I began to sand the top to bring down the resonance mainly on the lower bout perimeter.
After some vigorous sanding, I manage to bring down a few Hz; still have a long way to go.
After somemore sanding the resonance points didn't change too much and I realise I can't sand anymore.
The edges are too thin about slightly over 1 mm.
Now what I can do is to reach in and shave down the braces but before that I need to consider what other actions to take.
I could try to shave the back braces to increase the back coupling.
The body resonance should be within range but top resonance is a bit too high.
Anyway I think I just do up the binding and glue in the bridge.
If need to I adjust the back bracing to add more coupling.
After binding and purfling are glued and the bridge is on, the final resonance range is
Body: 104 Hz T(1,1)1 Top: 195 Hz T(1,1)2 and 227 Hz T(1,1)3
According to Trevor Gore (an Aussie Luthier who deal with tuning guitar in a more scientific method), the average values are 100, 190, 240; mine is quite close.
What Trevor aim for are 3 to 4 semitones apart for T(1,1)2 and T(1,1)3
Mine is a G and A about 2 semitones apart.
Let's see how it sound and I adjust later.
This is an active back so you can see 3 peaks very distinctly.
If non-active back, the 3rd peak will be heavily suppressed.
I think the active back does work, it makes the guitar have a fuller tone
(I only managed to hear a while the sound of the open strings before the bridge gave way)
104 Hz G#2
195 Hz G3
227 Hz A#3
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