I started on the sides.
Since the side was a bigger dimension than what I required I cut off the excess strip for use as bindings.
After that I marked out the rough dimension of the sides.
Since my plantilla was larger than before it think I need to redraw the template.
But before that, I could make the side mould a little larger to conform to my new plantilla.
Sawing off the excess for binding.
Sides marked
After the sides are sized accordingly, I proceed to plane it down to correct thickness.
I use my wooden plane for the job and it worked very good.
When I tune it to give thin shavings there were no tear-out but it cuts too slowly.
So I make the plane more aggressive, and there are some tear-out.
But when I plane it cross-grain, it thins nicely with no tear-out.
Now they are almost ready to bend, the thickness is about 2.2mm to 2.5mm.
When I flex the sides, they flex very nicely.
I also enlarge the side mould of my solera for the new plantilla.
Luckily I give is a thought before I enlarge the plantilla.
I had to check the position of the sound hole before I enlarge the plantilla.
I use rasps and the roller sander mounted into my hand drill with 80 grit sandpaper to do the job. The rasp is really agressive but i like it :)
After the rasp, I smoothen with my roller sander.
The enlarged plantilla.
Ready to be planed.
The shavings. This is only a fraction of the total shaving
Planing still... the clamp / stop at the other end.
No new photos, I just managed to thin both the sides to about 2.2mm.
The 2nd side is more prone to tear-out but planing it cross grain solves the problem.
Once at the right thickness, the side is floppy; it has the ready-to-be-bend type of feeling when I flex it.
Now all set to bend the sides.
Well after thicknessing the side, I am all set to bend the sides.
Some of my sides (like the ends) are still about 2.5mm thick; The crucial part like the waist is about 2mm.
Some mistake there I should have taken all down to 2.2mm
It's abit hard to bend at the ends.
Well I guess I can scrape more for the ends for now.
I started to bend the sides using my hot pipe.
I use 2 support wooden block when I bend at the waist.
Wet the sides at the point which I am going bend and apply the pressure and careful not to over press it and cause it to crack.
That's the beauty of hand bending I can literally feel if the wood is pliable enough to be bend or not.
After bending, I clamp it to my side mould for cooling off.
The bending set-up
Wet the waist area before bending. Careful not to bend the wrong way. Always double check the orientation before you start bending.
Bending at the waist
Check the fit with the mold
One side completed. Clamp to the mold and wait for it to cool off.
18 Oct 2012
Originally I wanted to continue to bend the 2nd side but 2 reasons why I stopped.
1) I haven't made the heel block yet.
2) My bender life time has been up: the base which hold the pipe has disintegrated. (MDF)
So I need to remake the base for the heat pipe.
With my new saw, router plane, and new drill stand, I did the thing in a hour's time.
Well, the glue is still drying so I can't use it as yet but the basic shape is there.
Once it dried it will be functional.
I did a dry run (w/o heat and w/o side), it seemed that the force of pressing on the pipe is quite big and so I reinforce the support for the pipe.
It is held by 2 U-shape bolt and this time round instead of using MDF for the base, I use pine wood instead.
The base was glued and reinforced with screws.
This should last me quite a while.
My latest tool addition, a drill stand by WolfCraft. It's very stable (heavy base) and very solidly done. The turning level is very smooth due to the sliding and pinion gear design as per Drill press unlike my old drill stand which is very hard to lower. Maybe I should do a review on this drill stand...
The new pipe bender
The old MDF base which was disintegrated...
19 Oct 2012
It's time for the new bender to be put into action; the bending of the 2nd side.
Again I prepared all the necessary thing, make sure the markings on the side are correct.
And clamp the bender and on the heat gun.
Once it's hot enough I start to bend the waist part.
The waist is the reverse curve bending compare to the UB and LB so must get the orientation right before bending.
Once the waist is bended to the correct angle (by checking with the side mould), I bend the LB and then UB after that.
The new bender works just like before except that it's more sturdy.
Then I clamp the sides to the side mould for cooling so that it will stay in shape.
The new heat pipe bender
Bending the waist, there is a minor crack but it will be sanded away
Lower bout bent
Clamped to the side mould
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