I took out my #4 and flatten the base with a 100 grit sandpaper.
Took my 3 pieces of sandpaper a few hours of sanding and it's still not quite flat...
But after that I smoothen it using 1000 grit.
I also adjusted the frog, making the alignment more perpendicular.
The mouth was made closer too.
Think I need to get more rougher grit to level that animal.
Anyway it did manage to shave thin slices of pine wood.
I am thinking of an plane iron upgrade, probably aiming for LV plane iron or IBC plane iron
After the #4 I proceed to flatten the base of my Stanley block plane 9 1/2 normal angle.
This time round the base was flatter, but still not as flat as I like it to be.
Here is the pictures
My entire plane collection.
Last Row: Anant #8 Jointer (the screw is screwed...)
2nd Last: On the left 3 MuJingFang 3 planes, MJF high angle block plane, MJF bullnose rabbet plane MJF (copy) smoother plane, Stanley #4
2nd row (middle): MJF compass plane convex, MJF concave compass plane, MJF mini straight plane, MJF mini block plane.
1st row: Stanley spokeshave, Stanley premium low angle block plane, Stanley 9 1/2 block plane, original block plane iron, Seagull block plane (My 1st plane).
The #4's base you can see it's starting to shine. But it can certainly shave.
The Stanley #4 smoothing plane
After the tune-up I tried the plane on the neck.
Viola it work like a charm.
The Spanish Cedar was a soft wood so the it wasn't a real test on the iron.
But still it can cut very thinly.
Planing the neck head surface flat.
The set-up
Light can pass thru'
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