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2013-01-07

Assemble the Guitar


20121128
It's ... assembly time.
Now that all the dentellones are prepared I can start to assemble the guitar.
But first of all I need to glue the heel block to the top.
Previously I had drilled 2 guiding holes so after applying the hide glue, I inserted the drill bit into the holes for alignment.
It's a lot easier to pull metal out than to use wood.
After it dried I check the alignment with the neck perfect fit.



Heating up the gluing surface.


Apply hide glue


Insert the alignment pin (drill bit)


Clamp it


Done.


Alignment with neck is perfect!


Another view


20121130
After that accident on the top I am ready to proceed.
Cracked Top
I tested the repaired top and it is sturdy as a rock.
The cracks aren't that visible.
Anyway I have learnt my lesson (hopefully) and place the top safely back into the solera.
No more hanging of tops anymore.
I put in back the side molds and align all the pieces carefully.
Luckily I had pencil markings previously it wasn't hard to align them.

I place in the sides and cut the wedges to a smaller length and check the fitting at the heel.
One side fits well and the other side I probably need to adjust the wedge angle to close a small gap.
I check the repair patch and 2 of them sits in the path of the dentellones and so I repmove those parts.
Finally the assmebly stage is set and ready for gluing.
Oh I just remember I need to put in the 3 big side brace for the 2 UTB LTB and the lower bout portion
They will serve to hold the back braces too.
I will make from end block with the grains parallel to the sides.
The rest of the side braces will be cross gain to the sides.



One side good fit


Small gaps here. The wedge angle will need to be adjusted.


Remove the patches which is in the way of the dentellones


Check with the dentellones


Overall look.


Not much update actually, I was waiting for a good weather to continue the assembly but it seems now is the rainy season and it rains everyday.
Looks like I wont be able to continue until next year when the weather clears up.
But meanwhile I will be concentrating on the guitar 4.5 10 string guitar.
Post coming up shortly!


20121231
I prepare the side bracing for the lower bout, LTB and UTB.
I cut the blocks from a end block blank; they have parallel grains as the sides so as to prevent stressed.
The rest of the side struts will be perpendicularly grained.
These 3 blocks (each side) will also be supporting the 3 back braces
One of the special feature is the lower bout side brace block; it has embedded nut to allow fixing of weights to the lower bout sides.
This feature will load the side to create more impedance on the sides so that the top vibration will be harder to transmit to the sides.
The end result will be a more vibrant top.
The result was discovered and experimented by Trevor Gore, I read it from his 2 volume of book on guitar making and tuning.
If you are serious about guitar making >this 2 volume are the book that you should get. After cutting to size and fitting the curvature to the sides, I drilled a hole and embed the nut inside.
After that I close the hole with a piece of spruce to prevent glue from entering the hole when I glue the block to the sides.
The fitting of the waist block was the hardest due to skew curvature at that part.
Also because of the elevated fretboard, the top itself was curve up so the base of the side block need to be fitted to the top.
Finally it's the block need to be fitted to the UTB and LTB.



The side blocks braces


At the UTB


At the waist


Drilling the holes for the LB side braces block.


Nut is embedded in the hole and covered by a spruce cap.


20130105
Finally the day has come for the actual assembly.
It has been raining for the past 1 or 2 months.
After waiting for a good weather, I finally got it.
The weather was fine and the forecast was good too!
It did rain in the evening though but it's OK
I heat up the hide glue and started to glue each dentellones or peones to the sides and top.
For the upper bout I need to correct for the tilt
But it's not too difficult.
I use chisel instead of a plane.



All sides clamp to the mold


Apply glue to the end block


Clamped the end block to the 2 sides


Applying hide glue to the dentellones


Glue the lower bout


The gap is for the side brace block


Correct the skew for the dentellones. The bottom piece is the cut off from the neck. It has the same angle as the sound board tilt.


Upper bout glued


All done waiting for the glue to dry.


20130107
After the glue dried, I began to trim the overhang.
Well I could have use a trimming bit but was lazy to set it up
Anyway the rebate place and chisel was pretty fast too and not to mention safer.
After that I tap the top it remind me of my #1's tap tone at this open back stage.
The treble side sound tighter and more focus and bass side looser and more bassy.
I think this build has good potential.



Trimming the over hang


For the waist I use chisel.


Trimming down the sides.


Check the curvature with the newly made radius stick

2013-01-06

Making the radius stick (sanding block)

I made a radius stick sanding block for the back.
Nothing special here draw the arc, spokeshave it and ensure squareness.
Finally glue some ply wood to join the 2 sticks to have enough area for sandpaper.


Spoke shave the radius stick (2 sticks)


Glue them together with 2 spacer block in between.


Apply glue to the plywood.


Clamping time


Can see the arch here.

2012-12-27

Making the solera v3

With the 10 string guitar build, the current side mold wasn't wide enough for the 10-string neck.
So I am left with 2 choice: either to cut the side mold or build a new one
Needless to say I build a new one.
This solera is flat without the elevated feature and with a movable side blocks instead of a side mold.
The process of making is alot simpler than my previous one.
Previously I had cut 2 more extra solera base and I simply use them for this make.
I glue them together and glued 2 pieces of pine below to support the solera.
Then I dished out the doming (about 4-5mm) and smoothen them with sandpaper.
After sanding I gave the base a coat of varnish for protection.
Next I cut the side blocks from the pine that I had.
There is some difference between the side blocks and my 1st solera.
In my 1st solera the slots are in the solera base, and for this v3 the slots are in the side blocks.
I drilled 2 holes in the side block base and use chisel to chisel them out.
With sharpened chisels this is very easy.
I drilled the corresponding holes in the solera base.
Finally I just need to find the hardware to fasten the side blocks to the solera.
I should be getting some winged nuts and hex bolts for that purpose
. One important aspect I am thinking of is to use rare earth magnet for holding the sides to the side blocks.
This way I don't need extra clamps and it's clean and easy.
How it works out I have to do some experiments.

Gluing 2 pieces of MDF together to form the base


Clamping the 2 pieces together


Dishing out the doming


Sanding it smooth with a curved sanding block


Checking the doming


Giving it a coat of varnish


Glue the bottom support to make it more sturdy


Clamp the bottom structural support to the base.


Cut a slot for the head stock. This is design for 650mm scale length. I haven't decide if I wanna cut a slot for 640mm scale length or not (will be placed inner a bit)


Chiseling the slot in the side block.


Side block almost done.


The radiused side block for the end block


Sanding the radius into the side block for end block


Checking the fit


Checking the squareness to the base


All the waste in chiseling


Gluing the reinforcement to the side block.


The solera almost done. Checking the fit for 10-string neck. Noticed the side blocks has a lining to improve the strength of the gluing. The direction of the lining is same a guitar lining.


Checking fit with the top.


With top and neck.

2012-12-10

New Tools!

Well as a guitar maker, we always suffer from 2 syndrome:
ZAS (Zoot Acquisition Syndrome) or WAS (Wood Acquisition Syndrome)
TAS (Tool Acquisition Syndrome)
Well I recently bought more new planes from China.
Amongst them is a 2 footer jointer.
Now my jointing will be even easier than before.
Another prize is the high angle smoother which will greatly reduce the tear-out during planing.

If you think these woodies aren't as good as those western plane then you are very wrong.
The HSS iron last longer than the western A2 equivalent.
I have several A2 irons: those on my Stanley #4 block etc.
It's more like the M4 iron.
Also the woodies are much lighter and more handy to use.
Now I only use the Stanley for shooting.



All my plane collection!


Convex and Concave round bottom plane


Rabbet plane with fence


Plough plane


2 footer jointer. Equivalent to a Stanley #8 Jointer


High bed angle smoother


Spoke shave


Comparison between a normal bed angle and a high bed angle smoother.