I glued the reinforce veneer to the sound port side.
I haven't decided whether to include a sound port for this build or not.
But I can glue-in the backing first.
Next I also glued in the middle back brace.
I just need to glue in the tornavoz and I am all set to close the box.
I also make the tornavoz for the top.
Previously I have already thin the tornavoz wood, so for this session I just heat and bend it.
After that I just use the clamp to hold it in shape.
I have not decide the exact radius yet.
After the box is almost done, I began to prepare the back by thicknessing the back with planes.
I tried to use the scrub plane but it is causing heavy tear outs in the back.
So I had to use smoothing plane and cut at a thin shavings setting.
Man, it's really a workout...
After sometime the back sure looks great; with a golden flame.
I began to brace up the lower bout of the back after the thicknessing.
finding the right location is always a challenge when gluing the back.
Some makers notched the back after gluing on all the 3 braces but for me, as I did not use the radius dish, my back doming was done with the brace in brace in the rim.
Thus, that method did not work too well for me.
This round I had to glue 2 brace onto the rim itself and glue the lower bout brace on the back instead.
This is to enable me to tune the active back with the lower bout back brace on.
The mid and upper bout are mainly for structural support.
Anyway that was done and I also glued in the angle braces
After that I shape those braces and glued in the seam support.
I choose IRW cut off as Maple is a light wood so it looks nice and in terms of weight it has some leeway to go.
I still need to cut some more seam support for the back but now it kind of look pretty nice.
It's really been a quite a while since I last posted.
I have been busy with my day job.
There has been a major reorg in my company and I am tasked a lot more things to do.
So end up I didn't have much time for building guitars.
Nonetheless I managed to do a couple of repairs and some guitar building.
Here I prepared for the assembly by cutting the rebate on the guitar heel block.
The easiest way is probably to use a router, but for me I use hand tools mainly and for this job I use the router plane and block plane.
I measure the thickness of the top at that point and cut the rebate.
Usually I cut a little deeper, and patch up the upper bout with a piece of horizontal grain spruce to protect it against cracks cause by the fingerboard.
This portion is very prone to cracks due to the expansion of the ebony fingerboard.
With dual protection from the extended heel block and spruce patch, this part is secured.
Of course it has the additional advantage of lending weight to the top notes
After preparing the patch, I finally glue the patch to the the top.
I aligned the top to the neck.
Then I drill some pilot hole thru' the top and the neck.
Then I shave some 3mm dowels for alignment.
Finally I glued the top to the neck, ensuring the centre line is aligned.
After the glue dried substantially, I release the clamp and put the entire assembly into the solera.
This is the start of the assembly.
I has to aligned the top and neck carefully in the solera to ensure the fitting is good.
Next I glued in the end block.
The end block has be pre-shaped to fit the end part of the guitar previously.
Next I started to glue in the peones or the lining block.
I was thinking to use ABW for the lining blocks but thought against it.
I was pondering to make this guitar a ultralight guitar of one with a heavy sides.
Meanwhile I can use my normal peones first and decide later.
I shape the wedges for fitting neck with the sides in place.
As the wedge is not thick enough, I added a piece of maple to the sides in the same grain direction as the sides.
After that I glued in the wedges.
Next I began to shape the rim of the sides.
I use my radius stick as reference and use the block plane (normal block since my LA block is out of action...) to shape the rim accordingly.
Finally I began to glue the back lining.
I leave a little protruding to allow for the sanding / planing of the lining to the radius.
Doing the side support struts for the LTB and UTB.
The support struts is a bit complicated due to the slanted angles by the curving sides in the LTB.
I finally finished shaping the 2 back brace after taking some time to decide how to go about doing it.
I did a joint on the 1st back brace and foot.
The foot will extend 1/2 into the width of the brace thus supporting one another.
The problem arose because the foot wasn't thick enough to accommodate the brace entirely and I don't wish to shave off too much of the back brace.
Thus by doing this way I can retain the strength and still support one another.
Next I began to work on the side braces.
I have to notch the lining in order to fit the side braces.
This is to prevent stress risers on the sides if they are butted against the lining.
After which I began to glue the side braces, starting with the side braces supporting the traverse braces.
Finally I managed to glued all the side braces for the lower bout.
I weigh the braces it ends up about 450g.
Think I wont be adding more braces.
I patched up the lining to close the gaps between the back braces and the back lining.
After which I began to glue the decoration piece for the LTB and UTB side supports.
It's has the same grain direction as the sides and hence it doesn't offer any much support; it's really for decoration.
Also I glue in the 1st back brace to the heel and rims.
Before that I weigh the back brace to see it's weight.
I had dropped my low angle block plane on the ground and the cap screw which holds the cap level broke.
Now I need to try find the spare part or it will become a white elephant.
I didnt manage to find any spare part for it.
So I turned to use normal threaded bolts instead.
As it's an imperial threaded screw I had to guess the nearest size.
I measure the width of the thread and it's about less than 5mm.
The nearest imperial thread unit I can find is 3/16"and so I ordered some from eBay.
When the item arrived I cut to length and tried.
Voila it works great!
Now I am back in business.
I am preparing the bracing for this guitar.
Finally I have decided to use Falcate bracing (by Trevor Gore) for this guitar.
However, I did a variation of the bracing.
His falcate is without the centre brace (6 braces) whereas I prefer to reinforce the centre seam and with a 7 brace variation.
But essentially the idea is the same; the bracing will allow more monopole movement.
To prepare the bracing I had to cut up the spruce, plane to thickness and bent them and finally glue them together.
For the main brace, I use 2 parts and for the most bent brace, I use 3 parts.
Bending spruce is rather easy.
The only problem now I have is whether to use carbon fibre tow or not.
Trevor's design calls for the use of CF, but I rather not use it if possible.
I prefer hide glue especially for bracing but for this case if CF is used, epoxy or CA glue will be used instead.
I then bend and glue up the 2nd bent brace.
This one required 3 layers instead but the process is essentially the same as the 1st
After it dried I then cut into 2 pieces for the left and right side.