Binding / Purfling Cutter

Cutting the top binding rebate
I finally had the chance to cut the top binding rebate after lazing around for so long.
Being able the work on the woods again, I felt really touched.
The sound of the guitar was really singing in my mind then.

Anyway enough of the crap, back to the session.
For this session, I managed to try both methods of the cutting the binding rebate:
- Using the trimmer
- Using purfling cutter and chisel

As the top was relatively flat at the edges, I decide not to built the trimmer jig.
The profile of the trimmer based wasn't too big.
The deciding factor was that it is simply taking too long a time to build the jig.
Often in guitar making it's always a dilemma in deciding to build jigs or just simply work on it.
Perhaps when I am at my #3 or so the jig(s) will come in handy.
For this case, I wanted to see some progress after lagging behind for so long, and so I simply use the trimer as it is.
But this time round I had some vanguard sheet to make sure the dust generated is sprewn onto the ground instead of all over the place.


The vanguard to make the dust dropped down instead of flying all over.

With the vaccum cleaner, the cleaning up process was much easier.

At first when I cut the binding rebate, the top sides were frayed... (forgot to get some pictures).
From what I read at OLF, this was due to the bit.
A down-spiral router bit would prevent such a problem.
Another way is to scribe the line first before the routing process.
And so for the 2nd side, I use the purfling cutter to scribe the top first before I use the trimmer.
The end result was much better.
Anyway the frayed sides were removed when I cut the top purfling rebate.

Here are some pics of the top binding rebate.



The only problem with the binding rebate was at the end near the heal region.
It is definitely high time to get a 2mm micro chisel.
In the end I had to use Xacto blade to cut and remove the excesss.
And it doesn't look pretty.



The purfling cutter
I wanted to try the old way of cutting the binding rebate.
Firstly I scribed the top and sides with the purfling cutter which I had made.
And then I removed the excess wood using the chisel.
When inverted, (i.e. bevel-side facing down), the chisel acts like a plane.
I was able to remove a thin slice using the reversed way.

The swan neck paring chisel by 2-Cheries was quite useful at the waist bend.
The other normal bevel-edged chisels which I used was abit too short, I think I would prefer a longer paring chisel.

I made the purfling cutter using some scrap basswood which I had.
I cut the basswood to size and glued it together using PVA.
The main body was simply 2 long pieces with a gap at the end for the bolt to pass through.
The blade end was glued with a T-nut within for securing the blade.

The blade was a skewed chisel which I had gotten it at Daiso.
To extract the blade, I removed the wooden handle.
The blade was held in place using a hex-bolt which was screwed into the T-nut hidden within the cutter body.

For the bottom piece, I use some more cylindrical wood which I got at Daiso too.
The bottom piece is attached to the top via a hex-bolt and winged-nut.
The round fence is abit long though.
I would shorten it someday.
Probably at about half the current length, the fence would be just nice.

Here are some pics of the purfling cutter.


Side view


Top view. The bottom piece is held in place using the wing-nut and the bolt.


Angle view. You can see the screw which I use to hold the blade in place.



Scribing the rebate


Another view. Here we are scribe the side. For the top we just turn the purfling cutter around.
The round fence is abit long though.


Chiselling the excess. The bevel edge is inverted.


Chiselling the purfling.

The #8 jointer
My new toy for the day...
I managed to get a Anant #8 Jointer Plane off Ebay.
At full 2' or 24" or 60cm in length, it's really heavy, boy.
The rear handle was abit loose but a few rounds to tighten the screw will probably remedy it.
Unfortunately I didn't have time to tune it.
That's a job for another day...

Here are some pics


Side view


It is 24" long


Angled view. Anant #8


The base. I think it looks flat enough. Not sure if I want to lap it or not.


The frog part.

Binding

Gluing the binding
Finally I managed to bind the back of the guitar.
The front's rebate I haven't cut yet, still stuck on making the jig for the trimmer.
For the binding I use tape to tape it down.
I admire those skill people to be able to work so fast with the glue drying so fast.
I use normal PVA white glue for the job.
It took me quite abit of time to get used to working fast.
Anyway what I should have done is to dry fit cut to length without the glue before attempting to cut and glue at the same time.

The rebate wasn't cut too good, so it was difficult to make the binding and BW purfling sit properly in the rebate, especially at the joints area, the butt-joint cutting was badly done.
To secure it in place I use normal tape and some rope.
However at places, the tape came lose and gaps were formed in the binding...
To make thins worse, the rope wasn't long enough to cover all the areas.
So some of the areas weren't tied by the rope and its those areas that have gaps.

However, I've search the OLF for some answers how to fill those gaps.
Basically just put some white PVA glue and sand the surround wood to fill the gaps.
If I use Cyano-acrylate (CA or super) glue I must remember to seal the purfing with shellac as it will stain it.
Since I am using white PVA I will continue to use that for the gap filling.


The way to secure the binding: tape + rope.


Rope abit too short though.


Another view.


As you can see the tape detaching at certain places.


You can see some gaps in the binding.


The but joint at the heel area badly done...


Gaps!!!


The butt area also not well done...


The butt view of the binding.

Filling the gaps
I read some post on the OLF for some ideas on filling the gap.
It is actually quite simple: apply some glue (PVA) and sand the surrounding area.
I tried it it really works.
The only thing is that the maple bind will be stained by the brown rosewood.
But after some scraping work, the maple is as good as new and the gaps filled.


Gaps filled


Another area


Similarly


Another one :)


Another 2 more :)




End insert
I also work on the end insert.
By right, the better way, is to do the end insert before gluing the binding.
However, since I have already done one side of the binding, it still not too late to do the end insert.
The other side of the insert will be routed by away.
If you are doing miters, then it's a different story...
As I have no side purfling, there is no need for me to do miters, so I can safely route away the end insert for the top bind routing.

I also redo the butt joint part for the bindings.
I chiselled away the binding for the width of the insert and use a binding leftover for the gap.
This time round I try to get as close fit as possible.
I had to paste the black purfling strip also, as it was chiseling away.
Now it looks abit thicker than the surrounding purfling.
Well not too well done but at least the gap isnt that obvious now.


Cleaning the insert area's side


Cleaning the channel using the 2 cherries curved paring chisel.


Dry fitting of the end insert. Looks good.


Glued insert.


Some scraping to fill the gaps. Forgot to take a picture that is applying the white glue 1st before scraping / sanding.


End part after the patch. The purfling strip looks a bit thicker than surrounding one...


Another view

Heel area
Now 2 problems solved, left with the heel aread.
The gaps are pretty bad due to lousy chiselling of the channel.
I should have gotten the 1 mm chisel to clear the binding channel...
Well the binding does sits properly in the channel causing the wide gap.
Now trying to think of a way to solve it.. stay tuned for the updates..


Big gaps...


Binding doesnt sits well in the lousy chiselled channel.


Remedy will be ???

Binding and Purfling (Cutting)

Binding cutter tool selection
Till now I am always considering what tool to cut the binding rebate.
1) Make a purfling cutter (like gramil) and chisel the rebate.
2) Dremel based cutter
3) My new Maktec Laminate Trimmer cutter

For 1, I will need to make the cutter, which would take some time.
Also I had problem of finding the correct material for the cutter.
I have already got myself a set of good chisel, so it will put the chisel to good use.

For 2, I need to make the router attachment.
Also, if I need to have a fine adjustment ability, I need some thumb screw with a catch.
Finding the correct screws are quite difficult.

For 3, the existing base and attachment are already suited for the job.
However I still need some practise in routing as I have never done any routing before.

Using the trimmer
After some experimentation and trying to do the router attachment for option 2, I gave up making the attachment.
So I chose option 3 and practise the rebate cutting.
The routing experience was pretty fun; but not the cleaning up experience.
The trimmer basically spurt all the wood dust across the room.
I never realised that a trimmer can spurt out so much dust...

Regarding the loose bit, I emailed the Makita company, they responded pretty fast.
They said I need to get the 6mm collet cone instead which cost about 2 to 3 dollars.
Anyway, I bypass the problem; I got 1/4" bit instead.

Anyway, while I collected the trimming bit at Kelantan lane / Jalan Besar area, I got some more 1/4" router bit instead.
I also got some hardware to make the 2nd option easier.
I will need the option 2 if I were to do some inlay and bridge drilling / routing.

Cutting the binding rebate
After some practise, I cut the rebate.
To minimise tear out, I cut in the direction from the widest bout (upper and lower) to the waist and butt aread.

Routing direction to minimise tearout


Routing the rebate.


Dry fitting of the binding.


Another view


Close up view of the rebate at the waist area. As you can see I did not cut the rebate very deep, so the rose wood side is still visible.
If I decide to add in a purfling, then I will need to increase the rebate thickness.


After routing the room was filled with rosewood dust.



Purfling scheme consideration

I have not decided to add in a purfling or not.
The back strip was without any purfling lines, so in order to have some consistency I think will not add any purfling to the back binding.
As the binding and the purfling are of different colours:
Binding: white (maple)
Back: Rosewood (brown),
if I wants to add a purfling it has to be even number and of alternate colours i.e. BW purfling or BWBW purfling.

For the front the top is white (spruce) and the binding is also white (maple), so I need an odd number of purfling: B or BWB.
I have purchased a herringbone purfling, which might just be suitable.
If I decide to use this herringbone purfling, I can also ornate the bridge's tieblock and the headplate with the same herringbone purfling.

Here is a picture of the herringbone purfling.
to be added.

Cutting the butt insert rebate
Initially, I wanted to make a jig/guitar holder for holding the guitar while I work on the but region.
However after much consideration, I decide to just use the F-clamp and some spare wood.

Here is the clamping assembly.
First, I clamp some spare MDF to the table using the smaller F-clamps.
Then using the big F-clamp, I clamp the guitar to the spare wood.
The corksheet was used to prevent scratches to the guitar top.


Then using the Japanese Luthier Saw (douzuki saw) I started to saw the but insert rebate.
After a few rounds of sawing, the douzuki saw was too flexible.
I switch to use the Gent's saw instead.
The douzuki saw was good for other purposes and with little wastage.
Each's saw has it's purpose and suitable application.
The Gent's saw was having thicker blade and thus able to keep the line straight.
Douzuki saw was good if the cutting was done at a slight angle.
However for sawing the line, its almost held parallel to the surface, so it's hard to keep the sawing going in a straight line.
The metal rod was used as guide in the initial stage of sawing.


The sawing is done.
Now to chisel away the wood in between the saw lines.


At first I use the Marples chisel but later switch to the broader Diefenbacher chisel.
Coincidentally, the width of the butt insert was the width of the chisel.
During the chiselling, I managed to find a use for the 2 Cherries bent chisel :)
The front part of the insert was block by some wood and I was clearing the middle part of the insert.
The bent chisel will avoid the front part of the wood waste and work directly on the
inner portion.


The channel almost cleared.


Unfortunately I slipped and chiselled away some of the wanted portions...
Here is a view of my mistake.
Still pondering how to salvage the situation.
The easiest way is to widen the channel, but I am afraid that will weaken the end block joint as the side to the endblock glueing surface is reduced.
Alternatively, I can cut a curve portion at the mistake part making some sort of design.


A close up view of the blunder...


The end channel.



Binding rebate
I decide to include the BW purfling for the back and thus widen the binding rebate.
Now the kerfed lining blocks can be seen.
However I have cut the rebate too deep and the binding's height is now below the back.
2 mistakes in a one day.
One way of remeding is to add a side purfling to increase the height.


Another view.


Foot region.
The channel was first sawn and then cut using 5mm chisel, it is still to wide for chiselling.
I might need to get the 2mm chisel from LMI next time.






Side Track: My Gutmeier Guitar
This section is not part of my guitar building but rather pictures from my existing guitar.
I have a '98 Western Red Cedar Top/Indian Rosewood guitar made by the Baltimore luthier Ross Gutmeier.
It has an incredible sound clear singing trebles, deep bass and great projection.
I happened to change strings and took the pictures of the internals of the guitar.

The guitar's bracing patterns was based on the famous luthier Ignacio Fleta (Barcelonia).
It had 9 fan struts with a full slanting treble harmonic bar.
The top bout was padded reinforcement pad; the guitar was very heavily built.
The body and neck was built separately and joined using the dovetail method.
Ignacio Fleta was a making violin family instruments before building guitar which explains why he had chosen to go for this type of neck/body joint instead of the traditional one piece Spanish foot joint.

Here are the photos:

Th 9 fan struts with enclosing struts at the tail end.
In addition there is a slanting treble harmonic bar at the sound hole region.
The guitar is certainly built heavily.


The bulky neck block for the dovetail joint.
According to some OLFers Gutmeier is known to epoxied the neck to the body using plain butt joint instead of dovetail.


At one side of the slanted treble harmonic bar.
You can see the tiny brace pockey simiar to what I did with my braces.


The other side of the treble bar.
You can see the bridge pad almost span across the entire top region.


Here u see the back struts.
Fleta had 4 back strut but there are only 3 on my gutmeier