Some new tools

Well I didn't have much time to continue the build.
I did acquire some new tools though.
Amongst them are 2 new squares to replace the old one which is broken at the locking part making it not really a square.
I acquire some new veneer caliper manual version too.
The digital one still works but I was lazy to replace the battery.
I also bought a new small drill press for drilling bridge holes but I have yet to test it out.
Anyway I should have spent more to get a real drill press this small one doesn't have enough power at all.
My main consideration was the noise actually; cant really get a noisy machine.
Also I bought some more clamps; you just cant have enough of them.

More cam clamps! You cant have enough clamps!

Quick release clamp? Bought about 10 of them as it is easy to deploy them with one hand

Small drill press.

Measuring tool, to replace my old square.

Closing the Box

20140401
This is not an April Fool's joke.
I have began the process (finally)
First I marked the position of the center brace onto the sides
When I close the box I transfer the marking onto the back (outside surface).
Then I lift the back up and transfer the marking to the inner (gluing) surface.
Then I also marked the center line on the brace and back itself.

Now I have the necessary marking in place.
I applied the hide glue and clamp making sure the brace is aligned properly to the marking.
I start with only one brace 1st so that I can make adjustment for the other 2 braces.

Close the box and mark the position of the brace onto the sides and then transfer to the back.

Transfer the mark from the outside surface to the inner one (gluing side).
Mark the center line on brace and back.

Apply hide glue

Glue and clamp making sure the position is correct.

20140403
After the centre brace is glue I fitted the back once again to check the alignment.
As usual the alignment was out by a little.
But a little adjustment to rotate it and it was back to centre.
The last time I did on #3, I glued 3 back braces all at once and the alignment was out (as usual).
The difference is I had to adjust 3 braces and that was hard.
Now I glued one at a time the adjustment was much simpler.
I began to glue the lower bout back braces.
After it dried, I check the alignment and this time the alignment was surprisingly on without any adjustment.

So I began to shape the profile of the back brace.
I tapped and listen to the back and the tap tone was now much better with the braces on.
I also cut 4 radial brace for the active back and glue it radially to the centre of the lower bout.

I preshape the profile of the radial brace as it's hard to reach in with the main back brace blocking the access to the radial brace.

For the upper bout brace I glued it to the main body instead.
This is because the brace is also supported by the foot.
This formed a very rigid upper bout structure.

I also prepared and glue the back seam reinforcement from cut-off of the spruce top.
The section between 1st and centre back brace is now yet covered with the reinforcement.
My friend had an idea to carve the label with laser etched label so the label will act as an reinforcement.
So with that I will leave it blank for now.
Also another reason is that I don't know the exact location of the 1st back brace until the back is on so I will only glue it once the back is assembled.
I will glue thru' the soundhole.
The last section will need to be removed due to the presence of the end block.
I measure the thickness of the end block and remove the section accordingly.

Gluing the lower bout back brace

Preparing to glue the upper bout back brace to the main body

Upper bout back brace glued.

Profiling the back braces.

Hollow the center section to increase the flexibility of the active back.

Length wise profile of the LB back brace.

Preparing the base of the radial back brace.

Saw away the ends

Shaped with a sander

Glued.

Preparing back seam reinforcement

Applying glue

Glued and clamped on the radius stick to impart some curvature.

Back almost done.

Marking the section to be removed. This section is covered by the end block

Saw the mark

Chisel away the section

Done

Last look before I close the box

The back

20140408
I still have some bits and pieces to clear before closing the box.
I glued an additional side brace at the other side of the veneer backing for the sound port.
Also I reshape the back radial brace as I felt it was way too thick.
Anyway after shaping it, the tap tone sounded quite good to my ears.
I shall be taking a recording of the back before I close the box for future reference.
However, it will not be truly representative as one patch of the seam reinforcement is missing and one brace is missing.
But I guess it'll make a good enough reference with respect to the lower bout.

Chisel away a porting of the upper lining to inlet the side bracing.

Similar for the lower lining

Glue and clamp the side brace

Re-shaping the radial brace

All done!

20140410
The box is closed!
I had a dry run before I do, making sure there is enough clamp and enough block to spread out the pressure.
After that I applied the hide glue and put on the back and start the clamping process.
With everything at hand the process was smooth.

Dry run to ensure all the tools are at hand

One last look before I close the box

Applying the glue to the rim and heating with hair dryer

Another view

The clamps are on

View from top.

20140410
There clamps were removed and I sealed up the edges and check the resonance.
The resonance points are well within my expectation; they are very similar to my #1's.
I was expecting the main air resonance T(1,0)1 to be lower though since I make the depth deeper and the internal volume is larger.
Anyway the values are still good.

Box closed clamps removed

Trimming the overhang with my small MJF plane. It's very handy for this purpose.

Trimming the overhang done!

New Lutz Spruce!

20140331
I received my new batch of Lutz Spruce from Shane of High Mountain Tonewoods.
Sadly he will no longer be doing the supplier business.
Anyway he has found someone to take over the business hopefully the successor will be just as good to deal with.
So far I just inspected one top and it looked very promising.
Need to inspect more and weigh it in order to find out more about the top.

The new batch of Lutz Spruce from High Mountain Tonewoods

This top taps nicely!

Prepare the Back

20140307
I began to saw away the outline for the various back.
I had 3 backs to saw away: #5, #7, #8 I started with #5's back as I wanted to close the box for #5.
Due to a lot reasons, #5 was delayed.
Anyway I decided to push forward and try to close the back within this dry season.

For this back the outer edge is pretty close to the plantilla shape.
So I use a coping for the sawing.
Care must be taken to support the pieces during the sawing so that it will not break.

Starting the sawing process.

1/2 way thru'

Sawing done.

Fitting to the body

Here's the back.

20140318
I began to thickness the back using the new Lie Nielsen scrub plane I had bought sometime ago.
I never know thicknessing is so easy :)
With the scrub plane I easily reduce the 6mm thick to 2.6mm within 30 mins or so.
Far better than I used to do with normal plane.

I was using a clamp on one end and a stopper Al bar at the other end for me to plane at 45 degrees to the grain.
Unfortunately the clamp gave way and the back was knocked on the Al bar and it snapped into 3 pieces or 2.5 pieces.
I examine the back and concluded that was a weak point of the back as the 2 cracks were mirror positions from the joint.
Anyway I glue it back as though they where joints and they should very strong if not stronger than before.

Thicknessing using scrub plane. It's done at 45 degrees and held by a clamp and Al bar stopper.

Can see the curve ridges after being planed by the scrub plane.

The back broked into 2.5 pieces 1 complete crack and 1 crack 1/2 way. I suspect is a point of weakness on the back. The crack positions were mirror images of each other.

At first I want to use the jig for re-jointing but I discovered the back is too small to be used by the jig. The rope will not push against the side edge of the back on one side.

So I just use 3 sticks and wedge instead.

20140320
I released the clamp and check the crack repair.
It looks quite nice.
After scraping the surface, the cracks looks virtually invisible.

As for the other side, I clamped 2 ends this time round and plane the ridges level with normal jack plane.
Finally I scrape it smooth.
It will be ready for closing the box.
Stay tuned folks!

The back being scraped. You can see 2 tones of scrapings. One from the outside surface one from the newly planed inside surface.
The outside has be oxidised till pretty dark whereas the inside being freshly planed is of lighter color.

Preparation for closing box dry run.