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2012-12-27

Making the solera v3

With the 10 string guitar build, the current side mold wasn't wide enough for the 10-string neck.
So I am left with 2 choice: either to cut the side mold or build a new one
Needless to say I build a new one.
This solera is flat without the elevated feature and with a movable side blocks instead of a side mold.
The process of making is alot simpler than my previous one.
Previously I had cut 2 more extra solera base and I simply use them for this make.
I glue them together and glued 2 pieces of pine below to support the solera.
Then I dished out the doming (about 4-5mm) and smoothen them with sandpaper.
After sanding I gave the base a coat of varnish for protection.
Next I cut the side blocks from the pine that I had.
There is some difference between the side blocks and my 1st solera.
In my 1st solera the slots are in the solera base, and for this v3 the slots are in the side blocks.
I drilled 2 holes in the side block base and use chisel to chisel them out.
With sharpened chisels this is very easy.
I drilled the corresponding holes in the solera base.
Finally I just need to find the hardware to fasten the side blocks to the solera.
I should be getting some winged nuts and hex bolts for that purpose
. One important aspect I am thinking of is to use rare earth magnet for holding the sides to the side blocks.
This way I don't need extra clamps and it's clean and easy.
How it works out I have to do some experiments.

Gluing 2 pieces of MDF together to form the base


Clamping the 2 pieces together


Dishing out the doming


Sanding it smooth with a curved sanding block


Checking the doming


Giving it a coat of varnish


Glue the bottom support to make it more sturdy


Clamp the bottom structural support to the base.


Cut a slot for the head stock. This is design for 650mm scale length. I haven't decide if I wanna cut a slot for 640mm scale length or not (will be placed inner a bit)


Chiseling the slot in the side block.


Side block almost done.


The radiused side block for the end block


Sanding the radius into the side block for end block


Checking the fit


Checking the squareness to the base


All the waste in chiseling


Gluing the reinforcement to the side block.


The solera almost done. Checking the fit for 10-string neck. Noticed the side blocks has a lining to improve the strength of the gluing. The direction of the lining is same a guitar lining.


Checking fit with the top.


With top and neck.

2012-12-10

New Tools!

Well as a guitar maker, we always suffer from 2 syndrome:
ZAS (Zoot Acquisition Syndrome) or WAS (Wood Acquisition Syndrome)
TAS (Tool Acquisition Syndrome)
Well I recently bought more new planes from China.
Amongst them is a 2 footer jointer.
Now my jointing will be even easier than before.
Another prize is the high angle smoother which will greatly reduce the tear-out during planing.

If you think these woodies aren't as good as those western plane then you are very wrong.
The HSS iron last longer than the western A2 equivalent.
I have several A2 irons: those on my Stanley #4 block etc.
It's more like the M4 iron.
Also the woodies are much lighter and more handy to use.
Now I only use the Stanley for shooting.



All my plane collection!


Convex and Concave round bottom plane


Rabbet plane with fence


Plough plane


2 footer jointer. Equivalent to a Stanley #8 Jointer


High bed angle smoother


Spoke shave


Comparison between a normal bed angle and a high bed angle smoother.